Pierre Troisgros 1928 – 2020

“Excuse me Michel may I have a quick word.” When that question was asked I knew I was headed for deep/uncharted waters. I sat up a little straighter. I was now in the presence of Pierre Troisgros. I was in the middle interviewing his son Michel about French culinary tradition that the directions that things were headed

“I’ll be just a second, ” said Michel Troisgros as he stood up to talk with his father. They spoke briefly. Michel then said the words that sent shivers down my spine. “Would you mind if my father joined us?”

Yes! I didn’t know if my French would be  good enough. In that I hoped I would not seem like too much of a noob. I hoped I could fake it long enough so Pierre Troisgros would not figure it out. Somehow I was about to keep the conversation going. My stilted questions were landing.

Then the unimaginable happened. Michel was called away to the kitchen. I was left alone with Pierre Troisgros. The chef smiled benevolently at me. Perhaps he took pity on the poor fool trying to act professional. I timidly asked if I could pose a few questions about his old boss Fernand Point. He readily agreed and to the next little while he reminisced about his time working for the legendary master chef.

Eventually/thankfully Michel returned. I was able to relax and seemingly exhale. The wall had been broken and I could now convers freely with the two chefs. Somehow my questions had lit a debate between the retired master chef and the experienced talented son who was incharge of the world famous restaurant.  Was able to sit back and listen to two world class chefs indulge in a generational debate about cooking.

At one point father and son discussed whether cooking was an art form. Pierre Troisgros said something that I still think of and refer to these days. “ Wouldn’t say cooking is an artform. But it is most certainly a craft.”

I was sad to hear of the passing of M. Troisgros. One of the last diones of the french culinary school for lack of a better description. He and his late brother Jean were at the forefront of developing Nouvelle Cuisine. I will fondly remember our conversation and the truly unexpected pleasure and experience it was.