I was really sorry to hear about the passing of famed chef Marc Meneau. I spent a few days with him back in 2005. He was what you would expect from one of France’s leading chefs: charming, charismatic, flamboyant, and judging from the shouting that came from the kitchen a little on the demanding side. Even after decades in the kitchen he was still very enthusiastic about food, it’s history and source’s. Not to mention a touch of the eccentric in him.
The chef and I sat down and talked for an hour or so at L’Espérance his MIchelin 3 star establishment. I was nervous that my French was not the strongest. Although I did have a decent enough grasp of culinary and food related words.
Meneau, ever the gracious host, gave me a cigar. A strong cigar. We sat in the bright lounge of his restaurant that overlooked his gardens. He happily pontificating and me trying to linguistically keep up with him while at the same time trying not to turn green and avoid a coughing fit from the cigar. Suddenly the chef jumped to his feet “Ah regarde un écureuil!” he said excitedly pointing to the window.
This causes me to start racking my brain to remember just what ‘un écureuil’ was. Culinary words and phrases zooming through my mind as the chef motioned me to join him by the window.
Then it hit me, ‘écureuil’ is a squirrel. This Michelin 3 star chef was giddy as a school boy by the fact that there is a squirrel in a tree. “C’est un vrai écureuil.” (That is a real squirrel.) he said pointing to the red squirrel minding his own business out on a branch.
At the time I thought it was a strange thing to get excited about. Later after talking with him more. I began to see and understand, The red squirrel in native to that part of France and was not an invasive species like the all too common grey squirrel.
I greatly enjoyed my time at L’Espérance. Marc Meneau to mention a few things was a keen naturalist, gardener, hisortian, art aficionado and he did a little cooking too. He was the kind of guy you just wanted to keep talking with.
Marc Meneau died of covid.